Wow. So, today we went on a trip up the Mekong Delta, through some little villages, and I was overjoyed to see just how those sheets of rice paper are made that I use to make spring rolls. Sounds silly, but as I watched them grind rice, mash it into a liquidy starch, then make thin rice "pancakes" and set them out to dry, I said, "Oh, wow! They're making spring roll wraps!" Yeppers, that's what it was. All that labor...I'll appreciate my spring rolls even more when I get home.
While out trekking around the Mekong, it rained. Well, rain is an understatement. Monsoon is almost an understatement, I'm lucky, because this is the first real rain I've seen in two weeks. Within about 10 minutes, paths were muddy rivers, everything was drenched, all of us were soaked, and the locals just went about their business as though nothing was happening. This isn't the kind of rain we get in California; I've even been in huge downpours in Dallas and they were nothing like this.
I also discovered coconut caramel candy, which we watched being made as well. It's delicious, addictive, and probably very dangerous, since I seem to have purchased a large quantity of it. Perhaps a few pieces will make it back to the states (perhaps not).
Another first yesterday: the power went out at around 8:30 pm. And stayed out til almost 8 am this morning. Now, that doesn't sound too bad, but in a place where the LOW temp is often hovering around 80, with seriously high humidity, A/C is a necessity for us wimpy Americans. It was a long, sweltering night. Made me miss San Francisco.
I am off to spend my last day in HCMC - tomorrow, I'm off to Vientiane, Laos, where the population is about 2% of what it is here.
I hope all of you are doing well. See you soon. --Janine
Sunday, October 28, 2007
Yakkety Yak
Saturday, October 27
Deciding to NOT go on a trip to the Cu Chi tunnels (I was tired, and also not thrilled with going into underground tunnels that are MUCH shorter than I am!), I spent a day just wandering around HCMC and relaxing. I got a haircut (yeah, yeah, my friends all said I'd break down and cut it, and the heat and humidity got to me!) for the equivalent of $3.50 US (including shampoo, blow dry the works), and also a manicure, pedicure, and facial.
Brian Johnson, stop laughing.
I decided to spent some quiet time sitting a park a couple blocks away - there are incredibly beautiful flowers here the likes of which I have never seen, and also tons of bouganvilla, which grows into trees here. But, to my surprise, there was not a lot of quiet time to be had. About 3 minutes after I sat on a bench, two young men approached me very politely and asked if they could talk to me. They are students at the international university here, and wanted to interview me for a school project on tourism. Sure, I said. They talked to me for about 15 minutes (recorded it, so they could go back to parts they may not have completely understood), took my picture, and went on their way. Within another couple minutes, a bunch of kids came up and talked to me for a bit. Nobody was asking for anything; they just thought it interesting to see me in their park, doing nothing. Anyway, to make a long story short, after a number of conversations and an hour of elapsed time, I wandered back to the block near my hotel to do some shopping.
It was good to spend a day doing nothing in particular.
One interesting thing: people here want to know my feelings and thoughts about their country, but ask them and they clam right up. I asked a couple people what their impression was about how easy or difficult it was for a Vietnamese national to get a visa to exit the country, and the response was always the same: "I don't know about that, I have never tried it before. Maybe you could ask a government official." Hmmmm. I have to wonder whether they all were truly ignorant on the subject, or if they just don't talk about leaving at all. On the other hand, people here continue to be better-fed, happier, and much more healthy looking than the people in Cambodia. One more bit of evidence that the country is in better shape: I've seen people here with prosthetic limbs, whereas in Cambodia all of the mine victime I saw simply were missing limbs, even in the largest city.
This country was among the 20 poorest nations in the world about 20 years ago, and still has a way to go, but they are definitely making strides.
Deciding to NOT go on a trip to the Cu Chi tunnels (I was tired, and also not thrilled with going into underground tunnels that are MUCH shorter than I am!), I spent a day just wandering around HCMC and relaxing. I got a haircut (yeah, yeah, my friends all said I'd break down and cut it, and the heat and humidity got to me!) for the equivalent of $3.50 US (including shampoo, blow dry the works), and also a manicure, pedicure, and facial.
Brian Johnson, stop laughing.
I decided to spent some quiet time sitting a park a couple blocks away - there are incredibly beautiful flowers here the likes of which I have never seen, and also tons of bouganvilla, which grows into trees here. But, to my surprise, there was not a lot of quiet time to be had. About 3 minutes after I sat on a bench, two young men approached me very politely and asked if they could talk to me. They are students at the international university here, and wanted to interview me for a school project on tourism. Sure, I said. They talked to me for about 15 minutes (recorded it, so they could go back to parts they may not have completely understood), took my picture, and went on their way. Within another couple minutes, a bunch of kids came up and talked to me for a bit. Nobody was asking for anything; they just thought it interesting to see me in their park, doing nothing. Anyway, to make a long story short, after a number of conversations and an hour of elapsed time, I wandered back to the block near my hotel to do some shopping.
It was good to spend a day doing nothing in particular.
One interesting thing: people here want to know my feelings and thoughts about their country, but ask them and they clam right up. I asked a couple people what their impression was about how easy or difficult it was for a Vietnamese national to get a visa to exit the country, and the response was always the same: "I don't know about that, I have never tried it before. Maybe you could ask a government official." Hmmmm. I have to wonder whether they all were truly ignorant on the subject, or if they just don't talk about leaving at all. On the other hand, people here continue to be better-fed, happier, and much more healthy looking than the people in Cambodia. One more bit of evidence that the country is in better shape: I've seen people here with prosthetic limbs, whereas in Cambodia all of the mine victime I saw simply were missing limbs, even in the largest city.
This country was among the 20 poorest nations in the world about 20 years ago, and still has a way to go, but they are definitely making strides.
Friday, October 26, 2007
Massage Envy
Friday night, October 26
Just a quick addendum, since Sara seems to be keeping track....just had another great massage. Does that make 7 now, or 8? :-)
Just a quick addendum, since Sara seems to be keeping track....just had another great massage. Does that make 7 now, or 8? :-)
Filial Piety
So, as we were waiting at the Laotian Consulate today for our Laos visas (heck, already here, why not see yet another country?), I was reading the Viet Nam News (there's an English version), and it fit in so well with yesterday's blog that I thought I'd share it.
Apparently, the Vietnamese government is afraid that, with all the western influences going on, their children will also absorb the western "selfish" attitude of kids. I have to say I think it's a valid fear. I adore my kids and I think they are wonderful, but in general I think American kids are selfish, snotty brats who have no idea what hard work is like and who expect to be waited on and entertained every waking second. Baseball teams, karate lessons, piano, dancing, girl scouts, mom take me here, dad pay for this. It's ridiculous.
Anyway, this article was focusing on one particular Viet girl who has retained her "filial piety" even in the face of westernization. She is 15 years old, gets up at 3:30 am every day to help her mother make soup, sells the soup on her way to school, then goes to school all day, comes home and does housework, helps her younger sister with her homework, and still maintains a near-perfect grade average. She and a host of other teens were being honored by the government for still holding their families in high regard and being good kids; in fact, they were being given scholarships. This girl only goes to a good school because she earns this scholarship year after year.
What a concept! Give kids money for schooling only if they do well in school AND honor their parents and extended families.
In other news, I've learned that metered cabs are NOT the way to go. I caught a guy today going way out of the way because he would make more money on his meter. It's the one time I have gotten perturbed, and I let him know it. He tried to tell me that every street was one way, so he had to turn left, go 3/4 of a mile in the wrong direction, and do the same over and over in order to get me to the Lao embassy, which was about five blocks from the hotel. I showed him the map, and our route, which I had been religiously following from the back seat, and he caved. No more meters.
We spent the afternoon being ridden around in cyclos, which are like bicycle rickshaws. We took the drivers to lunch, which I think shocked the living daylights out of them. I had GREAT pho bac (which is a beef noodle soup kind of thing). Yum city.
We also went to a bunch of museums, etc today, including the Museum of War Artifacts (formerly named the Museum of Chinese and American War Crimes, but renamed recently to avoid insulting tourists). They should have kept the original name - it was true. What we did in this country, from Agent Orange to napalm to nail bombs to god knows what else, was tragic. Yes, I know, war is always ugly, but it wasn't our dang business in the first place. We were trying to keep the country from becoming communist. SO we lose tens of thousands of good American soldiers and now what? The country is communist. We'll never learn...
All in all, though, these are the friendliest people so far. Even in exchanges with each other, there's constant laughter, much good-natured joking, and just a friendly attitude. If the city weren't dismally polluted (air-wise), I'd love to stay here for a long time. But, Laos awaits. Before leaving though, I am going to spend a day wandering around HCMC doing some shopping, and then a day up the Mekong for a cruise of sorts. I am going back on my original vow to buy nothing while here, and I am getting a thing or two for my munchkins. Perhaps, if they show some proper respect, they'll get the gifts when I get back to the states. :-)
OK, go call your parents, or grandparents, and tell them Janine told you to do it. HURRAH for filial piety!!!
--Janine
Apparently, the Vietnamese government is afraid that, with all the western influences going on, their children will also absorb the western "selfish" attitude of kids. I have to say I think it's a valid fear. I adore my kids and I think they are wonderful, but in general I think American kids are selfish, snotty brats who have no idea what hard work is like and who expect to be waited on and entertained every waking second. Baseball teams, karate lessons, piano, dancing, girl scouts, mom take me here, dad pay for this. It's ridiculous.
Anyway, this article was focusing on one particular Viet girl who has retained her "filial piety" even in the face of westernization. She is 15 years old, gets up at 3:30 am every day to help her mother make soup, sells the soup on her way to school, then goes to school all day, comes home and does housework, helps her younger sister with her homework, and still maintains a near-perfect grade average. She and a host of other teens were being honored by the government for still holding their families in high regard and being good kids; in fact, they were being given scholarships. This girl only goes to a good school because she earns this scholarship year after year.
What a concept! Give kids money for schooling only if they do well in school AND honor their parents and extended families.
In other news, I've learned that metered cabs are NOT the way to go. I caught a guy today going way out of the way because he would make more money on his meter. It's the one time I have gotten perturbed, and I let him know it. He tried to tell me that every street was one way, so he had to turn left, go 3/4 of a mile in the wrong direction, and do the same over and over in order to get me to the Lao embassy, which was about five blocks from the hotel. I showed him the map, and our route, which I had been religiously following from the back seat, and he caved. No more meters.
We spent the afternoon being ridden around in cyclos, which are like bicycle rickshaws. We took the drivers to lunch, which I think shocked the living daylights out of them. I had GREAT pho bac (which is a beef noodle soup kind of thing). Yum city.
We also went to a bunch of museums, etc today, including the Museum of War Artifacts (formerly named the Museum of Chinese and American War Crimes, but renamed recently to avoid insulting tourists). They should have kept the original name - it was true. What we did in this country, from Agent Orange to napalm to nail bombs to god knows what else, was tragic. Yes, I know, war is always ugly, but it wasn't our dang business in the first place. We were trying to keep the country from becoming communist. SO we lose tens of thousands of good American soldiers and now what? The country is communist. We'll never learn...
All in all, though, these are the friendliest people so far. Even in exchanges with each other, there's constant laughter, much good-natured joking, and just a friendly attitude. If the city weren't dismally polluted (air-wise), I'd love to stay here for a long time. But, Laos awaits. Before leaving though, I am going to spend a day wandering around HCMC doing some shopping, and then a day up the Mekong for a cruise of sorts. I am going back on my original vow to buy nothing while here, and I am getting a thing or two for my munchkins. Perhaps, if they show some proper respect, they'll get the gifts when I get back to the states. :-)
OK, go call your parents, or grandparents, and tell them Janine told you to do it. HURRAH for filial piety!!!
--Janine
Thursday, October 25, 2007
East Meets West
Thursday, October 25
Today was a day of travel, from Phnom Penh in Cambodia to Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam. I'm glad the trip was by bus, because it was great to see the Cambodian countryside - it was MUCH greener and more lush than the cities (including surrounding countryside) that we have been to already. Oddly, the bus driver was more apt to slow down for cows int he road than for people - go figure. There was a moment of interest at the border, when the Cambodian officials challenged the exit of a middle-aged, paunchy caucasian guy traveling with five young Cambodian girls (not too young, but probably 18 - 20). Who knows what that story was. Eventually, they were allowed to exit Cambodia and had no issues getting entry into Vietnam.
HCMC is huge - millions of people, and (I didn't think it was possible!) even more traffic than Phnom Penh had. The hotel here is iffy, only because the A/C only stays on for 3 minutes at a time. The front desk assured me that it will be fixed in an hour, and if it's not I'm leaving and finding another hotel - there are about a hundred within spitting distance, after all.
Now, on to the subject of the day...my lovely daughter is now making blog requests, and her latest is on the topic of westernization. Well, Sara, here's what I can tell you.
In Phnom Penh, almost EVERY sign (stored, restaurants, even street signs and government signs) were in Cambodian AND in English. The air pollution was in credible, due in large part to thousands of motorcycles all using tons of cheap, watered-down gas bought in Thailand (taxes are less there) and brought over the border to sell. Most places, even street vendors, take (and prefer!) American dollars to the local currency, which is riel. In fact, many menus list prices in dollars first. Most restaurants have taken to offering "western" or "English" food, although it's often an interesting variation. But, I still am totally hooked on pancakes with honey now! Almost all cars are Toyota Camrys or Lexus SUVs (with a few Honda CRVs and some Mercedes thrown in for good measure). Half of the Toyotas are from Brit-influenced Thailand, so are right-hand drive, and half are from French-influenced Vietnam, and are left-hand drive. Those right-hand drive cars make driving a truly frightening adventure, when a driver is trying to peer around a car to see if he can pass, but the driver is on the right-hand side to has to pull WAY out to just peek! We learned early on to get around, where possible, by tuk-tuk instead.
But by FAR the biggest evidence of Westernization is the cell phone. Everyone has one. I mean everyone. And every other shop seems to sell them. It gets truly interesting when your taxi driver is on his cell phone, whilst trying to peer around traffic from his right-hand driver's seat. This is the stuff that horror films are made of!
Most people speak some smattering of English, although the most commonly known words are "sir" and "madam."
Our initial experience in HCMC wasn't the best...and I already miss the lazier life of Cambodia. We got off the bus to the standard huge wave of taxi drivers assaulting us, and made a deal with one of them to be a driver for two solid days, for $40 total. We EACH asked him to repeat it, and clearly there was an understanding, However, while we were checking into the hotel, he called his boss, who apparently said it was too little. So, the boss said it was $40 per PERSON for the two days. Oh come on, as if anyone charges per person for taxi rides! Needless to say, we told him bye-bye. It turned out to be a good decision, since there are many attractions to see here that are all within a mile or so of the hotel, and I could use a good walk or two.
Sara, you can add 1 to my massage count (I got another one yesterday). I think I'll most likely not get one today, until we figure out where a good, clean place is. Oh, how sad - a day without a massage! :-)
I am much looking forward to having real Vietnamese food here - spring rolls, pho bac, you name it. But for now, I need to go check on the A/C and see if we can move our room if it's not working properly.
For anyone still reading my verbose musings, I'd like to request any positive thoughts, prayers, etc. Two days ago, my father had to be admitted to an ER and then moved to a convalescent hospital for up to a couple months, trying to get some sort of medication balance that will alleviate his anger enough to make him able to move to the residential care facility that my mother had picked out and signed him up for. This transition is going to be a rough haul for my mother. It's necessary, but still tragic. My mother is an incredibly woman, and I love her more than I could ever say. I pray for her to find peace in this time.
Thanks, and be happy. --Janine
Today was a day of travel, from Phnom Penh in Cambodia to Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam. I'm glad the trip was by bus, because it was great to see the Cambodian countryside - it was MUCH greener and more lush than the cities (including surrounding countryside) that we have been to already. Oddly, the bus driver was more apt to slow down for cows int he road than for people - go figure. There was a moment of interest at the border, when the Cambodian officials challenged the exit of a middle-aged, paunchy caucasian guy traveling with five young Cambodian girls (not too young, but probably 18 - 20). Who knows what that story was. Eventually, they were allowed to exit Cambodia and had no issues getting entry into Vietnam.
HCMC is huge - millions of people, and (I didn't think it was possible!) even more traffic than Phnom Penh had. The hotel here is iffy, only because the A/C only stays on for 3 minutes at a time. The front desk assured me that it will be fixed in an hour, and if it's not I'm leaving and finding another hotel - there are about a hundred within spitting distance, after all.
Now, on to the subject of the day...my lovely daughter is now making blog requests, and her latest is on the topic of westernization. Well, Sara, here's what I can tell you.
In Phnom Penh, almost EVERY sign (stored, restaurants, even street signs and government signs) were in Cambodian AND in English. The air pollution was in credible, due in large part to thousands of motorcycles all using tons of cheap, watered-down gas bought in Thailand (taxes are less there) and brought over the border to sell. Most places, even street vendors, take (and prefer!) American dollars to the local currency, which is riel. In fact, many menus list prices in dollars first. Most restaurants have taken to offering "western" or "English" food, although it's often an interesting variation. But, I still am totally hooked on pancakes with honey now! Almost all cars are Toyota Camrys or Lexus SUVs (with a few Honda CRVs and some Mercedes thrown in for good measure). Half of the Toyotas are from Brit-influenced Thailand, so are right-hand drive, and half are from French-influenced Vietnam, and are left-hand drive. Those right-hand drive cars make driving a truly frightening adventure, when a driver is trying to peer around a car to see if he can pass, but the driver is on the right-hand side to has to pull WAY out to just peek! We learned early on to get around, where possible, by tuk-tuk instead.
But by FAR the biggest evidence of Westernization is the cell phone. Everyone has one. I mean everyone. And every other shop seems to sell them. It gets truly interesting when your taxi driver is on his cell phone, whilst trying to peer around traffic from his right-hand driver's seat. This is the stuff that horror films are made of!
Most people speak some smattering of English, although the most commonly known words are "sir" and "madam."
Our initial experience in HCMC wasn't the best...and I already miss the lazier life of Cambodia. We got off the bus to the standard huge wave of taxi drivers assaulting us, and made a deal with one of them to be a driver for two solid days, for $40 total. We EACH asked him to repeat it, and clearly there was an understanding, However, while we were checking into the hotel, he called his boss, who apparently said it was too little. So, the boss said it was $40 per PERSON for the two days. Oh come on, as if anyone charges per person for taxi rides! Needless to say, we told him bye-bye. It turned out to be a good decision, since there are many attractions to see here that are all within a mile or so of the hotel, and I could use a good walk or two.
Sara, you can add 1 to my massage count (I got another one yesterday). I think I'll most likely not get one today, until we figure out where a good, clean place is. Oh, how sad - a day without a massage! :-)
I am much looking forward to having real Vietnamese food here - spring rolls, pho bac, you name it. But for now, I need to go check on the A/C and see if we can move our room if it's not working properly.
For anyone still reading my verbose musings, I'd like to request any positive thoughts, prayers, etc. Two days ago, my father had to be admitted to an ER and then moved to a convalescent hospital for up to a couple months, trying to get some sort of medication balance that will alleviate his anger enough to make him able to move to the residential care facility that my mother had picked out and signed him up for. This transition is going to be a rough haul for my mother. It's necessary, but still tragic. My mother is an incredibly woman, and I love her more than I could ever say. I pray for her to find peace in this time.
Thanks, and be happy. --Janine
Tuesday, October 23, 2007
Of Monks and Men
Tuesday, October 23 (?)
Since my daughter seems to always leave me a comment, and was commenting on the issue of girls having no alternative place to study (boys can go study in the pagodas with the monks), I thought I'd cast a ray of sunlight on what could be a gloomy subject.
Today we visited a Wat in Phnom Penh. It houses 400 monks and 1000 people altogether, including students. We happened to pass a monk, and started talking to him. He was thrilled to explain anything we needed to know, and even took us into their temple there, turned on all the lights for us, and showed us around. I asked him about the issue of countryside girls having no schooling, as they were too far from city schools and could not study in the pagodas. Ahhh, he said, the monks were concerned about that, too. So, now they will (in the larger pagodas) allow the girls to stay in the house with female "lay persons" (cooks, cleaning staff, etc), and study with the boys. It's a small step, but a step in the right direction.
Interestingly, this young man told us that he hoped to someday go to the USA, because everyone there has a job and a home. We explained that even the USA has homeless people, and he was astounded. We also talked with him about the situation in Myanmar. He said that his feelings were hurt that the monks there were being imprisoned, and that his Wat was trying to send them supplies if possible. Never once did he express any animosity towards the Burmese government; it just isn't in his heart to do so. What an incredible religion that teaches (and PRACTICES!) the concept of harboring no hatred. Looking into history, it's clear that Buddhism is one religion that wars have not been fought over - no Spanish Inquisitions, no jihads, no constant conflict with people of other religions. Just a deep and abiding quest for peace and education and help for community. Thanks here to my sister-in-law, Janet, for suggesting a great book on Buddhism written by the Dalai Lama. Reading it along the way here has proven invaluable (and restful).
Along with the Wat, we saw the National Museum, monument to independence, and may tour the Grand Palace this afternoon. Meanwhile, I just got a one-hour foot massage. Heck, by the time I get home, I will have paid for my air ticket in massages alone! These things are amazing; walk all day in this heat, limp into a massage place, and come out an hour later ready to run a marathon. An hour of bliss, plus a head and neck massage, and a cup of tea while listening to relaxing music cost me $7 (I have learned that it's better to pay more for a very clean place, and avoid worry). The same place will do 2 hours of full body massage for 12 dollars. Hmmmm....I think I may have some free time tonight? Sara, are you keeping track of massages? I have lost count...
Nap time. It's rough life. :-)
Since my daughter seems to always leave me a comment, and was commenting on the issue of girls having no alternative place to study (boys can go study in the pagodas with the monks), I thought I'd cast a ray of sunlight on what could be a gloomy subject.
Today we visited a Wat in Phnom Penh. It houses 400 monks and 1000 people altogether, including students. We happened to pass a monk, and started talking to him. He was thrilled to explain anything we needed to know, and even took us into their temple there, turned on all the lights for us, and showed us around. I asked him about the issue of countryside girls having no schooling, as they were too far from city schools and could not study in the pagodas. Ahhh, he said, the monks were concerned about that, too. So, now they will (in the larger pagodas) allow the girls to stay in the house with female "lay persons" (cooks, cleaning staff, etc), and study with the boys. It's a small step, but a step in the right direction.
Interestingly, this young man told us that he hoped to someday go to the USA, because everyone there has a job and a home. We explained that even the USA has homeless people, and he was astounded. We also talked with him about the situation in Myanmar. He said that his feelings were hurt that the monks there were being imprisoned, and that his Wat was trying to send them supplies if possible. Never once did he express any animosity towards the Burmese government; it just isn't in his heart to do so. What an incredible religion that teaches (and PRACTICES!) the concept of harboring no hatred. Looking into history, it's clear that Buddhism is one religion that wars have not been fought over - no Spanish Inquisitions, no jihads, no constant conflict with people of other religions. Just a deep and abiding quest for peace and education and help for community. Thanks here to my sister-in-law, Janet, for suggesting a great book on Buddhism written by the Dalai Lama. Reading it along the way here has proven invaluable (and restful).
Along with the Wat, we saw the National Museum, monument to independence, and may tour the Grand Palace this afternoon. Meanwhile, I just got a one-hour foot massage. Heck, by the time I get home, I will have paid for my air ticket in massages alone! These things are amazing; walk all day in this heat, limp into a massage place, and come out an hour later ready to run a marathon. An hour of bliss, plus a head and neck massage, and a cup of tea while listening to relaxing music cost me $7 (I have learned that it's better to pay more for a very clean place, and avoid worry). The same place will do 2 hours of full body massage for 12 dollars. Hmmmm....I think I may have some free time tonight? Sara, are you keeping track of massages? I have lost count...
Nap time. It's rough life. :-)
Monday, October 22, 2007
You Ain't Seen Traffic Until.....
...until you see it in Phnom Penh
Monday, October somethingth
I like the fact that I have absolutely no clue what the date is.
Yesterday, our final day in Siem Reap, was spent relaxing, changing some money, relaxing some more, and then i got to spend a few hours last night just talking with Savong at the guest house. This was after we went to a bakery and bought about ten pounds of goodies (total: 3 dollars), then took it to the guest house and set it out on the tables in the common area. It was all gone in about 3 minutes. Again, so many people...so little food.
Went to get a manicure and pedicure. While there, I noticed an interesting hair treatment being done on a couple girls. After a while, i realized they were being treated for lice. Hmmmm...am I itchy yet?
I am going to miss geckoes on the walls, frogs on the floors, and bees the size of my fist (well, maybe not the bees). But we are now in Phnom Penh, after a five-hour boat ride down the Tonle Sap river. The guest house we are in is on the river itself, which means there is a nice breeze out on the balcony (and not too many bugs, since the breeze is fairly brisk). We have a driver hired for a couple days. This gentleman, Along, is well-spoken, has the best English of anyone I have met here so far. Over lunch, I asked him where he learned English, and he said a little here and there. I asked about his education, and he told me that he went to university, but before they started teaching English in the universities here. He has a master's degree in Khmer literature, and was an assistant professor at the university. But, he found that he could not support his family (wife and two kids) on his $20/month salary, so now he drives a tuk-tuk. He hustled us from the time we got off the boat, and finally we gave in because his English was great and he seemed like a genuinely nice guy. It paid off for him - these next two days, he will earn what he would have made in two months as a professor. What a dismal shame. Until people really value teachers, education will not be taken seriously.
Anyway, I tried something new for lunch - chicken in coconut milk and lemongrass. The color was atrocious, but the taste was incredibly good. I am already paying a gastrointestinal price for all this new food, but hey, that's why God made immodium (which is dirt cheap at any pharmacy here). We were given some sort of sweet gelatin with some kind of sweet masa-like substance in it, wrapped in banana leaves, for dessert. Hey, as long as it isn't dog or spiders, I'm game. It was, as expected, fantastic.
But, on to the traffic. I cannot possibly describe it. At any one time, I can look up and see maybe 50 vehicles, ranging from bicycles to trucks, within 30 yards of us. Maybe even 30 feet. I was closing my eyes, to avoid the fear, but it is so fascinating that I have to open them. Total gridlock appears unavoidable, and then suddenly everyone weaves in and out of each other and keeps going, like a choreographed driving team. These kids put the blue angels to shame, let me tell you. I have pictures.
We did see one moto accident today, but it involved an American driving a rented motorcycle - there is no way any person who hasn't grown up driving in this mess could navigate it. Poor guy - he was dumping his bike and falling into the street just as we passed; I hope he is OK.
Saw the killing fields and a high school that was turned into a prison by the Khmer Rouge today. I'm glad we got the depressing stuff out of the way first. On a brighter note, the kids here actually make noise, and play, and always have a smile and a wave for you. They look so much healthier than the kids in Siem Reap did. I think they just eat better. I actually saw a couple of overweight people today (a first!). It's good to see.
OK, I am sitting on a barstool typing this (my hotel has unlimited internet access for customers!) and my back is getting sore, so I am going to scoot off to the room and have a shower now. then sit on the balcony and feel the breeze.
As always, life is good. I miss my friends and my family, but I wouldn't give this opportunity up for the world.
Tomorrow, perhaps I'll discuss that fact that boys with no money can study in Pagodas with the monks, but girls are out of luck. I'm sure my lovely daughter will have something to say about that.
Oh, and massages here are the cheapest yet - $1.25 per hour. BUT, I think I'll stick to the $5 variety - cleaner places, fewer lice.
Be happy! --Janine
Monday, October somethingth
I like the fact that I have absolutely no clue what the date is.
Yesterday, our final day in Siem Reap, was spent relaxing, changing some money, relaxing some more, and then i got to spend a few hours last night just talking with Savong at the guest house. This was after we went to a bakery and bought about ten pounds of goodies (total: 3 dollars), then took it to the guest house and set it out on the tables in the common area. It was all gone in about 3 minutes. Again, so many people...so little food.
Went to get a manicure and pedicure. While there, I noticed an interesting hair treatment being done on a couple girls. After a while, i realized they were being treated for lice. Hmmmm...am I itchy yet?
I am going to miss geckoes on the walls, frogs on the floors, and bees the size of my fist (well, maybe not the bees). But we are now in Phnom Penh, after a five-hour boat ride down the Tonle Sap river. The guest house we are in is on the river itself, which means there is a nice breeze out on the balcony (and not too many bugs, since the breeze is fairly brisk). We have a driver hired for a couple days. This gentleman, Along, is well-spoken, has the best English of anyone I have met here so far. Over lunch, I asked him where he learned English, and he said a little here and there. I asked about his education, and he told me that he went to university, but before they started teaching English in the universities here. He has a master's degree in Khmer literature, and was an assistant professor at the university. But, he found that he could not support his family (wife and two kids) on his $20/month salary, so now he drives a tuk-tuk. He hustled us from the time we got off the boat, and finally we gave in because his English was great and he seemed like a genuinely nice guy. It paid off for him - these next two days, he will earn what he would have made in two months as a professor. What a dismal shame. Until people really value teachers, education will not be taken seriously.
Anyway, I tried something new for lunch - chicken in coconut milk and lemongrass. The color was atrocious, but the taste was incredibly good. I am already paying a gastrointestinal price for all this new food, but hey, that's why God made immodium (which is dirt cheap at any pharmacy here). We were given some sort of sweet gelatin with some kind of sweet masa-like substance in it, wrapped in banana leaves, for dessert. Hey, as long as it isn't dog or spiders, I'm game. It was, as expected, fantastic.
But, on to the traffic. I cannot possibly describe it. At any one time, I can look up and see maybe 50 vehicles, ranging from bicycles to trucks, within 30 yards of us. Maybe even 30 feet. I was closing my eyes, to avoid the fear, but it is so fascinating that I have to open them. Total gridlock appears unavoidable, and then suddenly everyone weaves in and out of each other and keeps going, like a choreographed driving team. These kids put the blue angels to shame, let me tell you. I have pictures.
We did see one moto accident today, but it involved an American driving a rented motorcycle - there is no way any person who hasn't grown up driving in this mess could navigate it. Poor guy - he was dumping his bike and falling into the street just as we passed; I hope he is OK.
Saw the killing fields and a high school that was turned into a prison by the Khmer Rouge today. I'm glad we got the depressing stuff out of the way first. On a brighter note, the kids here actually make noise, and play, and always have a smile and a wave for you. They look so much healthier than the kids in Siem Reap did. I think they just eat better. I actually saw a couple of overweight people today (a first!). It's good to see.
OK, I am sitting on a barstool typing this (my hotel has unlimited internet access for customers!) and my back is getting sore, so I am going to scoot off to the room and have a shower now. then sit on the balcony and feel the breeze.
As always, life is good. I miss my friends and my family, but I wouldn't give this opportunity up for the world.
Tomorrow, perhaps I'll discuss that fact that boys with no money can study in Pagodas with the monks, but girls are out of luck. I'm sure my lovely daughter will have something to say about that.
Oh, and massages here are the cheapest yet - $1.25 per hour. BUT, I think I'll stick to the $5 variety - cleaner places, fewer lice.
Be happy! --Janine
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