The Side of the Road

Tuesday, November 6

OK, I have totally slipped back into slothdom. I had breakfast, went back to my room, read, took a little nap, then went to the spa here for 2 hours of pampering - sauna, body scrub, aromatherapy massage (yes, Sara, another massage!). Then, some more reading.

I had to find an ATM to get cash for the train tickets I booked today, so we took off on a motorbike looking for one. There's one maybe a mile away (remember, we are out kind of in the middle of almost nowhere), and I got some Baht to pay for the tickets when they arrive tomorrow. Then, we went on a quest for dinner. Someone at the ATM pointed at a side street and said there was a restaurant 2 Km up that street, so off we went. About 1 1/2 Km up, we saw a place on the side of the road - it had 6 tables, 5 of which were taken. So, what the heck; if the locals eat there, it must be good. We went in, and of course the menu was only in Thai, but the manager (owner?) suggested a pork soup that is his specialty, so we said okee dokee. Soon, he brought a boiling cauldron of soup to the table, over a still-burning fire pit, and a plate of pork, liver, chicken, and raw egg as well as a basket of cabbage, rice noodles, lemongrass, and basil. The trick is to put in whatever tidbits of meat, egg, and veggies you like, let it boil for 5 minutes, then eat. Pick, dunk, repeat...until all the meat and vegetables are gone.

To be kind, he only put one chili pepper in the broth, and I was brave enough to add to my bowl some of the chili paste he brought in tiny bowls for us. It was damn good.

One of the locals eating there, who had plowed through about half a bottle of whiskey, came over and asked us where we were from, then proceeded to tell us he was in the Thai special forces. Lo and behold, he was telling the truth. He and Val had an hilarious conversation (hilarious because neither of them understood more than 10 percent of what the other was saying), and then Val paid for his dinner along with ours. Total cost for all three of us, plus his bottle of whiskey: $9.

We are going back there tomorrow. And if any of you ever find yourselves in Mae Rim district of Chiang Mai, find Sang Jan Moo Joom restaurant and have the pork soup and lemongrass salad (which came with a bunch of fried prawns as well). It's to die for. Sometimes, the best things are those that you just happen across.

Tomorrow, a motorbike adventure to see an elephant camp and a huge botanical garden, and maybe some other stuff. Then, back to this same place for dinner. Yum city!

--Janine