Whatever Floats Your Boat

Saturday, October 20

Another longish day, which started for me at 4 am because I couldn't figure out an issue with the A/C and sleeping without it is impossible (unless you are Val, in which case sleep is possible anywhere, any time, in any position). At 7:15 or so, i wandered into the "courtyard"(and I use the term VERY liberally) of our guest house, where the staff were playing one of the first games of pool of their 100 or so daily games. To my surprise, one of the staff introduced me to our guide for the day. This was surprising mostly because I specifically told the manager yesterday that we did NOT need a guide today. Hmmmm. So, after much discussion, I said fine, he could work for us today, and we would wing it tomorrow. We planned the day, to go to Angkor Thom plus one other temple in the Angkor complex, and then to Tonle Sap (a floating fishing village maybe 15 km from Siem Reap).

Off we went at 8:00 am to Angkor Wat, and saw two more huge and interesting temples, one of which has been nearly destroyed by trees growing up, around, through, and out of it. There has been other destruction as well. Until recently, people would cut off chucks of temples and smuggle them into Thailand, where they brought a good sum of money. Now, police patrol every temple int he Angkor complex nightly. Sad, but true.

I have found that it's less expensive for me to just pay kids to take a picture of them, rather than buy whatever they are selling (and I have to carry less stuff around!) Of course, they are always surprised when i give them some money, take a picture, and given them back their trinkets. I'm sure they think I am one stupid sap. Possibly true, but a stupid sap with some cute pictures.

I learned today how this tourism industry has changed the country. People have more money than they used to (but still not enough), but they also have learned that the more they hassle people, the more money they make (evidenced by the guide today "showing up"even though I didn't need one). With anything good comes something bad. I wonder whether these people hate our guts because we come to their country, throw our money around, and invade their space. Still, it doesn't matter as much as I thought it would, because the guide told us that most Cambodians think ALL caucasian people are French (apparently, we all look alike). So, at least if they hate me, they think they are hating the French. No offense, Zeph. :-)

We went to Tonle Sap, which is a floating fishing village. We saw it by rented boat (another bunch of money to the boat driver). It occurred to me halfway through that I am getting used to the smells here. When I get back home, I wonder if I am going to just want to stay inside and sniff things all day and enjoy the lack of raw sewage. If my last post was asking you to hug your shower, I think this one should humbly request that you hug a plumber. Anyway, it amazes me how many adults exploit their kids by having them (on a school day) ride along on a fishing boat, begging tourists to buy sodas for a buck, or just to give them money. Ultimately, school will probably be more valuable, but I also understand that the more pressing immediate need for food has to take priority.

Oh yeah, and kids here do not wear diapers - most just hang around bottomless. I was holding Savong's baby yesterday for an hour or so, just waiting to be peed on, but nothing happened. Then, I realized that I had been watching this kid being held for a couple hours before that, and nothing happened then, either. It all came together, then - babies here are SO quiet, and I almost never hear or see them cry. I think they are just so seriously dehydrated that they don't cry, or pee, or care about much. Even the little kids who wave at me have a hollow look in their eyes. I wonder if drinking water is that precious? It's so sad that a baby under a year old would already be stoic and accepting of this life. It makes me want to cry.

Wow, I just realized this is getting depressing. I guess this has been a kind of downer day, just from the whole "if I make myself a total nuisance, then I can get $20 from you for being a guide"thing to the total poverty seen everywhere. Tomorrow will be a day to relax, maybe take some pictures of flowers, and rest up. Monday it's time to ride a boat down the river to Phnom Penh.

And oh yes, Sara, in case you are counting still, I intend to go get yet another massage tonight (my fourth). Heck, it's only 5 bucks here! Let's see, that will be four massages in 7 days, for a grand total of $35. How can I resist?

To end on an upbeat note: I have discovered fruit shakes - sort of like smoothies, but the fruit here is so fresh that they are incredible. Pineapple shake and rice for lunch, banana shake and noodles for dinner.... life is good.

Please be safe, my friends, and don't forget to hug a plumber today!